How Better Materials Affect Cost VS Quality?

Dakom Tiling · Auckland · June 14, 2025 – Dakom Tiling – 8 min read

Do Better Tile Materials Actually Pay Off?

Breaking down the real relationship between material quality, upfront cost, and the long-term value of your tiling investment.

The tile you choose today will live in your home for decades. Understanding the cost-quality relationship isn’t about spending more – it’s about spending wisely.

When it comes to tiling, the temptation to save money upfront is real. Budget-friendly tiles fill the shelves at every hardware store, and the price difference between a basic ceramic and a premium porcelain slab can feel jarring. But experienced tilers know something most homeowners don’t: the cheapest tile is rarely the most economical choice over time.

1. Material Spectrum – What Your Money Buys

Not all tiles are created equal. From kiln-fired basics to the luxurious depths of natural stone, each material occupies a different position on the cost-quality spectrum. For deeper technical reading on tile specifications and material performance, Tile Letter is the leading international trade publication on the subject.

Material

Cost

Durability

Water Resistance

Best Used In

Ceramic

Budget

Moderate

Good (glazed)

Low-traffic walls, dry areas

Porcelain

Mid-range

High

Excellent

Floors, bathrooms, kitchens

Marble

Premium

High (with care)

Moderate (porous)

Feature walls, luxury spaces

Granite / Slate

Premium

Very high

Good-Excellent

Outdoor, high-traffic floors

Large-format Slabs

Luxury

Very high

Excellent

Feature surfaces, open-plan spaces

Pro Tip

Porcelain is the sweet spot for most homes. It offers near-natural-stone aesthetics with superior stain, scratch, and moisture resistance – at a fraction of the maintenance cost. For high-traffic or wet areas, it’s often the most cost-effective long-term choice.

2. Quality Factors – Four Qualities That Justify the Price

When you pay more for a better tile, what exactly are you getting? These four qualities account for the bulk of the price difference – and they all translate directly into real-world value.

Durability

Premium tiles resist scratching, chipping, and surface wear far better than budget alternatives – critical in hallways, kitchens, and family bathrooms.

Water Resistance

High-quality porcelain and sealed natural stone form an effective barrier against moisture penetration – reducing the risk of costly subfloor damage.

⏳

Longevity

A premium tile installed correctly can last 30-50 years with minimal maintenance. Budget tiles may need replacement within a decade in demanding environments.

Aesthetic Appeal

Natural stone and high-end porcelain hold their visual quality over time – they don’t fade, yellow, or look dated the way lower-quality surfaces often do.

3. Hidden Costs – The True Price of Going Cheap

Lower-quality tiles rarely cost less in the long run. Here’s what often gets overlooked when choosing budget materials:

• More frequent replacement – cheaper tiles crack, chip, and wear faster, meaning you pay for the tile, the removal, and reinstallation all over again.
• Higher maintenance costs – porous or poorly glazed tiles stain easily and may require specialist cleaning products or periodic resealing.
• Subfloor damage risk – inferior water resistance in wet areas can allow moisture to penetrate, leading to structural damage that far outweighs any initial savings. BRANZ research consistently identifies moisture ingress behind inadequate tiling as one of the leading causes of structural building failure in New Zealand homes.
• Grout instability – lower-quality tiles are often less precisely dimensioned, causing uneven grout joints that crack and allow water ingress over time.
• Impact on property value – premium tiling is a genuine selling point; substandard finishes can reduce perceived home value or require costly replacement before sale.

The Long View

“A tile laid well with premium materials is an asset. A tile laid poorly with cheap materials is a liability. The floor is one of the hardest things in a home to change – so choosing wisely at the start saves you money, disruption, and regret for decades.”

4. Installation – What Increases Installation Costs?

The tile itself is only part of the total cost equation. Installation complexity can significantly affect what you pay, regardless of the material selected.

Large-Format Tiles

Tiles over 600mm require more precise substrate preparation, specialist adhesives, and careful handling. The result is a seamless, contemporary look – but expect higher labour costs to reflect the added skill and time involved.

Intricate Patterns & Mosaics

Herringbone, basketweave, or custom mosaic layouts involve more cuts, more material waste, and considerably more skilled labour time. Budget for 15-25% more material than a straight lay requires.

Substrate Preparation

No tile performs better than the surface beneath it. A poorly prepared substrate – uneven, damp, or structurally compromised – will cause even the finest tile to crack or debond. Professional substrate preparation is not optional – it’s the foundation of a lasting installation. Build Magazine NZ offers detailed guidance on substrate standards and best-practice construction methods.

5. Application Guide – Matching Material to Space

Key Principle

Always match the tile’s technical specification to the demands of the space – not just its appearance. A beautiful marble that’s porous and slip-prone is the wrong tile for a busy family shower, regardless of how stunning it looks.

• Bathrooms & wet areas: Use fully vitrified porcelain or sealed natural stone with a minimum slip rating of R10 for floors. Waterproofing membranes are essential – installers working in Auckland must meet Auckland Council’s PS3 waterproofing requirements.
• Kitchen floors & splashbacks: Porcelain or glazed ceramic; prioritise stain resistance and ease of cleaning over surface texture.
• Living areas & hallways: Higher PEI-rated porcelain (PEI 4 or 5) handles foot traffic without surface wear. Large-format slabs create a strong impression of space.
• Outdoor & alfresco areas: Choose frost-resistant, high-slip-rated tiles with low water absorption. Rectified porcelain and natural slate are popular choices.
• Feature walls: Marble, book-matched stone, or large-format printed porcelain can shine here – lower traffic means you can prioritise aesthetics over technical durability.

6. Professional Installation – Why It Matters as Much as the Tile

Even the finest tile will fail if installed incorrectly. Professional installation ensures:

• Proper adhesive selection matched to the tile’s weight, porosity, and substrate type
• Correct substrate levelling to within the manufacturer’s tolerances
• Appropriate expansion joint placement to accommodate thermal movement
• Precise grout joint sizing that complements the tile format and design intent
• Waterproofing that meets or exceeds Building Code requirements

Working with a registered tiling professional – particularly one affiliated with TANZ (Tile Association of New Zealand) – gives you confidence that industry best practices are being followed from start to finish.

FAQs About How Better Materials Affect Cost VS Quality

We Found The Same-Looking Tile at a Big Box Store For a Fraction of The Price - Will we Regret Buying Cheap Tiles?

This is one of the most common questions homeowners face, and the honest answer is: it depends on where you’re installing them. Budget tiles from large retailers are often slightly less precisely cut, may have fewer design variations per box, and can be from different print runs – meaning colour or shade can vary between boxes. For low-traffic wall applications or dry areas, a well-priced tile can perform perfectly well. But for floors, bathrooms, kitchens, or any wet area, the difference in durability, water resistance, and dimensional consistency between a budget tile and a quality porcelain really does show over time. The tile itself is only part of the cost – if it fails in five years, you’re paying for removal, replacement, and potential substrate damage on top.

What's The Actual Difference Between Ceramic And Porcelain - They Look Identical?

They do look nearly identical, and the confusion is completely understandable. The difference is in how they’re made. Porcelain is fired from a finer, more refined clay at significantly higher temperatures – around 1,200 – 1,400°C compared to around 900°C for ceramic. This makes porcelain denser, harder, and far less porous, with a water absorption rate of 0.5% or less. Ceramic absorbs considerably more moisture, which is why it performs poorly in wet areas or outdoors. For floors that see real foot traffic, look for a PEI rating of 4 or 5 – this is the industry standard for wear resistance. Ceramic typically ranges from PEI 1-3, while most porcelain rates at 4 or 5.

We're Selling Soon - is it Worth Upgrading Cheap Tiles Before Listing The House?

Generally, yes, but with nuance. Substandard or visibly worn tiling is one of the first things buyers notice and use to negotiate. If your tiles are cracked, heavily stained, or look dated, replacing them – especially in bathrooms and kitchens – tends to return close to their cost in perceived value. However, if the tiles are clean and intact, a professional grout clean and reseal is often a better use of money than a full replacement. The key is condition, not price paid. A budget tile that’s well-maintained reads far better to a buyer than an expensive tile that’s been neglected.

Can I Use The Same Tile Indoors And Outdoors, or do I Need a Different Product?

You need a different product for outdoor use. Outdoor tiles must be frost-resistant – meaning they have a very low water absorption rate so they don’t crack when moisture inside the tile freezes and expands. They also need a higher slip rating (R11 or above for outdoor areas in New Zealand) to be safe when wet. Most indoor porcelain tiles are not rated for outdoor use. Rectified porcelain, specifically designed for outdoor applications, and natural slate are both popular choices for New Zealand alfresco and patio areas. Always check the manufacturer’s specification sheet before using any tile outside.

A Tiler Quoted Significantly More Than Another - What Actually Drives Installation Costs?

Three things primarily drive the difference: substrate preparation, tile format, and layout complexity. A cheaper quote often skips proper substrate levelling, which is the most common cause of cracked or debonded tiles within a few years. Larger format tiles (600mm and above) require more precise preparation and specialist adhesives, adding legitimate cost. Complex patterns like herringbone or diagonal layouts create significantly more cuts and waste – budget an extra 15-25% for material. Finally, experience matters: a tiler qualified to issue a PS3 producer statement for waterproofed wet areas carries extra accreditation and accountability that justifies a higher rate. The cheapest installation quote is rarely the cheapest outcome.

Table of Content

• • Do Better Tile Materials Actually Pay Off?
  • 1. Material Spectrum – What Your Money Buys
  • 2. Quality Factors – Four Qualities That Justify the Price
  • 3. Hidden Costs – The True Price of Going Cheap
  • 4. Installation – What Increases Installation Costs?
  • 5. Application Guide – Matching Material to Space
  • 6. Professional Installation – Why It Matters as Much as the Tile
  • What Homeowners Ask Most About Tiles

  • We Found The Same-Looking Tile at a Big Box Store For a Fraction of The Price - Will we Regret Buying Cheap Tiles?

  • What's The Actual Difference Between Ceramic And Porcelain - They Look Identical?

  • We're Selling Soon - is it Worth Upgrading Cheap Tiles Before Listing The House?

  • Can I Use The Same Tile Indoors And Outdoors, or do I Need a Different Product?

  • A Tiler Quoted Significantly More Than Another - What Actually Drives Installation Costs?